Sanding can make or break a wood project’s appearance. Even perfect looking factory-planed lumber needs hand-sanding to open the grain and promote even staining. A final hand-sanding is also essential to remove the tiny swirl marks left by orbital power sanders. For professional looking results, follow these tips:

Use the right grit size:
First assess the smoothness of the surface. Start with 60-grit paper for lumber that is very rough, although with most wood that has been planed or machined you can start with a finer grade. Progress through finer grits, such as 80, 100 and 120, without skipping any steps. Your first, coarsest sanding should flatten high spots. Subsequent sandings should replace larger scratches with finer ones. Where to stop depends on the work. In general, sand surfaces to be painted to 120 grit, fine objects to be stained and varnished to about 180. An ultrasmooth oiled finish may require even finer grits and a longer progression, such as 120, 180 and 280, finishing with 400 wet-and-dry paper and oil.

Sand with the grain:
Sanding at an angle to the grain leaves scratches that are difficult to remove. Overlap sanding strokes and apply equal pressure on both forward and backward strokes. Sand across the grain only when you want to remove a large amount of wood, then follow up by thoroughly sanding with the grain.

Use a sanding block:
With a flat backing, abrasive paper can remove bumps and span low spots. Buy a sanding block, or fit a half sheet of paper around a 4-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ x 3/4″ (115 x 115 x 19 mm) wood block. Don’t use your fingers on flat surfaces — the abrasive paper will follow any irregularities in the wood, leaving a wavy surface.

Don’t sand out gouges and dents:
You’ll get wide, shallow, very noticeable craters. Instead, fill any deep scratches with wood filler; try raising dents with a steam iron.

Use a sanding block to ensure flat sanding, but take care not to let the block go more than halfway off the end of the workpiece, or it’ll round the edge.

A sanding sponge is a good alternative for sanding rounded or irregularly shaped pieces. You can also use a sponge for sanding wet surfaces.

Avoid cross-grain scratches on pieces that butt at an angle by first sanding the piece with its ends set to the adjacent pieces, then the pieces with free ends.

Wet-sand between coats of varnish to produce an ultrasniooth finish. Use 400- or 600-grit wet-and-dry silicon carbide paper on a block with water or oil.

Odd shapes and sizes

Mopping about:
For sanding walls and ceilings before painting or for smoothing wallboard joints, you can buy a pole sander — or you can make one from your sponge mop. Remove the sponge, wrap a sheet of abrasive paper around a block of wood the same size as the sponge, and screw or clip the block to the mop. The frame will hold the paper in place.

Shapely paper:
When sanding a flat surface, you need to use abrasive paper with a supportive backing. The same is not true, however, when you’re sanding curved shapes. You can shape abrasive paper with your fingers or the palm of your hand to match the contour of an irregularly shaped surface. To sand a long turning, such as a chair leg, wrap the paper around the wood (making sure the ends overlap) and slide the paper up and down. For shorter sections on a turning, hold a strip of fine abrasive paper at both ends and run it back and forth over the area as if you were shining a shoe.

A crooked pack:
If a sanding sponge isn’t hany when you need to smooth a curved surface, improvise one with a pack of playing cards. Wrap abrasive paper around the pack, hold it on edge, and press it firmly against the surface. The cards will conform to the shape of the work and sand it evenly.

Matching curves:
To smooth curved indentations, cut a short piece of old garden hose and make a slit down the length of it. Wrap abrasive paper, grit side out, around the hose and tuck the ends into the slit. (You can also glue or tape the paper in place.) For smaller grooves, wrap the paper around a wooden dowel. Or fold the abrasive paper and fit the crease into the groove; apply pressure alternately on each side
of the groove. For larger surfaces, wrap the paper around a cylindrical plastic container.

Not just a nail file:
Intricate cuts and small, hard-to-reach places can be easy to sand if you use emery boards; these file-like sanders are easy to handle and provide two sanding grits. For a greater range of grits, glue different grades of abrasive paper to ice cream or ice block sticks.

Sticky fingers:
Another way to sand hard-to-reach areas is to attach self-adhesive abrasive paper to your fingertip. You’ll have a good feel for the surface you’re sanding and greater control over the work. To sand into a corner, apply the paper to the blade of a stiff putty knife. As the paper wears, pull it off the blade, move it up, and tear off the used portion.

Holding the work

Padded workbench:
To keep, the bottom of a workpiece from being scratched while you’re sanding the top, use a rubber backed carpet scrap as a pad for your bench. When you’re finished, clean the carpet with your workshop vacuum cleaner.

Against the grit I:
When sanding small parts, it’s easier to rub the part against the abrasive paper than to rub the paper against the part. To make the job even easier, set the paper on plywood or sturdy cardboard
and hold it in place with spring clips.

Against the grit II:
To rub pieces against abrasive paper, you can cover a block of wood with paper, securing the edges with a rubber band; then hold the block in a vice.

On a stick:
Another way to sand small work is to dab hot glue on the back of the piece and stick it on the end of a dowel. Hold the work by the dowel while sanding. To unstick the piece, pop the assembly into the freezer for a few minutes. The cold will quickly free the workpiece.