Shedding light

General illumination:
Replace overhead incandescent bulbs with fluoroscent fixtures, which are cheaper to operate, last longer, and give an even, diffused light. Suspend two-tube units over major work areas. Choose 4′ (1200 mm) units and, for a large workshop, double the number of tubes. Plug each unit directly into a ceiling light outlet. If that’s not possible, have an electrician install permanently wired units. Fluorescent tubes are available in a viriety of light ‘types ‘, so that you can have ordinary tubes or ‘daylight’ units which emit a light that more closey mimics daylight conditions outdoors.

Reflected glory:
To improte general visibility in your workshop, paint wall and ceiling areas white or a light colour (the lighter the colour, the better it will reflect both natural and artificial light).

Workbench lighting:
A folding-arm lamp is perfect for close work. But having it clamped on the workbench edge can limit its usefulness. To put the lamp wherever you need it, remove the lamp bracket and drill holes at various points in the bench top for the lamp to fit into. Make each hole, the same diameter as the hole in the lamp bracket.

Mobile light:
Clip-on lamps with reflectors also provide a flexible source of light for close work. If you don t have a shelf that you can attach them to, mount a 2″ x 1″ (50 mm x 25 mm) timber strip onto the wall 2′ (600 mm) or so above the workbench. This will allow to light your work from many angles. or from two angles at once.

Prevent popping lights:
Flying debris produced by power tools can shatter a hot light bulb. Use shatterproof bulbs or tape window screening over the front of the lamp reflector.

Power supply

Dust off:
Keep your workshop’s electrical outlets from becoming sawdust-clogged fire hazards. Cap unused outlets with plugin ‘childproof’ plastic covers. Or install outdoor weatherproof covers that face down and do not trap dust.

Cord hangers:
Use clothes pegs to keep power cords out of your way. Screw or glue them to overhead joists or other strategic spots. Or, for a hanger that lets a cord move without chafing it, slit a short length of old garden hose diagonally. Open the slit to tack the hanger in place and to insert or remove the cord.

Convenient outlets:
A multi-outlet power strip installed under the front edge of your work-bench provides a handy place to plug in power tools while keeping cords out of your way. Use a properly earthed power strip with a fuse or circuit breaker and a reset button to prevent overloads. Also make sure it is rated to handle the maximum total amperage that you will use on it.

Power from above:
For access to electricity, having a retractable (reel-type) extension cord from a hook screwed into an overhead joist. Or mount a multi-outlet power strip on a drop-down board bolted to a joist. Plug your new overhead power source into an existing power point. If you have to run an extension cord to it, secure the cord loosely with slit-hose hangers. Permanently attaching an extension may violate electrical codes.

Rewiring?
Make sure you have enough circuits and a safety switch installed in your main meter box. Have your electrician install a sub board near the workshop to control all workshop circuits. This way, you can easily turn off all power to the workshop and lock the sub-board to prevent unapproved use of your power tools. Check with your electrician to see if separate circuit breakers can be installed on your sub-board so that you won’t have far to go when a breaker trips, or if an emergency requires you to turn the power off immediately.

Avoid shock!

Here are some simple ways to cut electrical risks in your workshop:

Safety switches:
Have an electrician install a safety switch on the main meter board for your house, to protect all power circuits. You can also buy power points with safety switches, as well as in-line units for use with extension cords.

Cords and plugs:
Replace frayed or cracked electrical cords and plugs. Damaged cords are extremely dangerous and should be replaced immediately. Never try to fix a cord with electrical tape. Keep cords from being trampled underfoot and away from the work area as much as possible. Pay particular attention when using power cutting tools, such as saws and grinders. Always use heavy-duty cords rated to handle more current than your tools will draw. Avoid tangles and fully retract coiled cords when using high-wattage toots or heaters.

Earthing:
If you have a metal workbench, have it earthed to reduce the chances of a shock from shorted equipment. An electrician can earth it by running a wire irom the bench to an electrical sub-board, or to a metallic electrical conduit.

Extension cords

Cord keeper:
Extension cords stay tanglefree when kept inside a 20 liter bucket. Near the bottom of the bucket, cut or drill a hole large enough so that the cord’s pronged end can pass through it. Then coil the rest of the cord into the bucket. The cord will come out easily when pulled. Plug the ends of the cord together when it’s not in use. You can use the space in the centre of the coil to carry tools to a work site.

Just one more:
If you want to store your cords flat — and keep them organised — coil or loop the cord. Bind the centre of the cord tightly with one of the plastic ‘key lock’ ties that come with large polyethylene garbage or garden bags. To hold very long cords, join two or more plastic ties.

Coil and hang:
Here are three quick steps to coiling and hanging a long extension cord. Hold the end of the cord in one hand. With the other hand, loop it back and forth in figure 8s. When the cord is coiled, take a single loop and wrap it twice around one end of the coil. Finally, insert that same loop through the centre of the smaller coil opening and pull it tight. To store the cord, hang this loop on a large nail or peg.

Preventing a sudden disconnect:
Does the plug of your power tool tend to pull out of the extension cord socket when you are working overhead or are moving around a lot? To keep this from happening with any portable power tool, tie the ends of the two cords together loosely in a simple knot.

The right extension cord for the tool.

The wire gauge of an extension cord determines how much current it can safely carry (The larger the wire diameter the greater its current-carrying capacity.) Other measures of current are amperage and wattage. Look for these ratings on the cord’s packaging, and on the tool’s specifications plate. The cord ratings should be equal to or greater than those shown on the tool. Note: If a cord seems to get hot when it is in use, or if it is over 30 feet long, choose the next amp rating up.

Amp and Wattage ratings

A 10 Amp cord has a rating of 2400 Watts and should be used for light industrial or handyman use, such as for a small drill, belt sander, reciprocating saw, router or circular saw.

A 15 Amp cord has a rating of 3600 Watts and can be used for heavier power use, such as that found on a building site. It should be fine for small and large table saws, radial arm saws, band saws, caravans and mobile homes.

Flashlights

In tight places:
To drive a screw in a dark corner, attach a little penlight to the shaft of your screwdriver. You’ll be able to see the screw-head easily.

A point of light:
Create a mlni light for small job tight places by plugging a night-light into a household extension cord. You’ll be able to move this little light as far as the cord will reach. When finished, you can asemble the pieces in a flash.

Prop it up:
Turn a pair of pliers into a handy flashlight stand. Prop the flashlight at the needed angle in the jaws of the pliers. To hold the jaws firmly around the flashlight body, stretch a rubber band to link the handles of the pliers.